Our Favorite Roofing Materials
When we recommend materials for a DIY roof project, we're thinking about which products have given us the best balance between upfront cost, how long they actually last, and how straightforward they are to install without special equipment. These are the ones we've chosen ourselves and watched perform over years in the field. They're not always the cheapest options on the shelf, but they're the ones where the cost aligns with what you actually get—no surprises, no shortcuts hidden in the specs.
The materials below have one thing in common: they perform consistently across seasons, they're available in most regions without special ordering, and they don't require trade skills or tools you can't rent for a day. That last point matters more than it sounds—a material that saves you two hundred dollars but demands a specialist's touch isn't actually an option for a weekend project.
The Key Figures
A few numbers tell you almost everything about whether a roofing material will work for your project. Coverage is how many square feet one bundle will handle—a bundle of standard asphalt shingles covers about 33 feet, but metal standing seam and cedar shake vary widely. Weight matters because it affects both transport and how your rafters have to handle it; dimensional shingles run heavier than three-tab, and your framing tolerates a ceiling here. The final number is wind resistance, given in miles per hour the material can handle before edges lift or failure begins. Most residential materials today are rated to 130 mph as a baseline, and that's worth knowing before you choose a product rated only to 90 mph in a coastal zone.
The Reference Table
| Material | Coverage (sq ft / bundle) | Weight (lbs / square) | Wind Rating (mph) | Lifespan (years) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3-tab Asphalt Shingles | 33–35 | 80–85 | 60–90 | 15–20 |
| Dimensional Shingles | 20–25 | 200–240 | 110–150 | 20–30 |
| Metal Standing Seam | 40–50 | 50–80 | 140–160 | 40–70 |
| Wood Shake | 15–20 | 280–350 | 90–120 | 20–40 |
| Corrugated Metal Panels | 36–48 | 50–70 | 130–160 | 25–50 |
| Lifespan assumes normal maintenance and climate; coastal zones with salt air and freeze-thaw cycles reduce longevity. Wind ratings are manufacturer-tested minimums; actual performance depends on proper installation. | ||||
Common Sticking Points
Do I need to remove the old roof before installing new material?
Not always. Code in most jurisdictions allows one layer of new shingles directly over old ones if the underlying structure is sound and the old layer isn't buckled or cupped. Two layers is the legal limit; a third layer means tearoff. The benefit is saving two to three thousand dollars in labor and disposal. The risk is that you can't inspect what's underneath, and if the old roof failed because of moisture, you're layering over an unseen problem. We usually recommend tearoff if the structure is more than fifteen years old or shows signs of moisture.
Why do some materials cost so much more for barely longer life?
The price difference between a twenty-year asphalt shingle and a metal roof rated for sixty years isn't just lifespan. Metal won't moss in humid climates the way wood shakes do, and you don't re-coat it every few years. Dimensional shingles cost more upfront than three-tab but they look the same for thirty years instead of fifteen. The math changes when you factor in that one tearoff, disposal, and reinstall costs more than the material itself—so the material you choose partly determines whether your grandkids see a second tearoff on this roof or never do.
Is the most expensive material always the best choice?
No, and that's important. Metal roofing costs twice what dimensional shingles do, but it won't last twice as long in most climates. The advantage is color retention and zero maintenance; the disadvantage is footprint. On a metal roof, a single hailstorm can dent a fifty-thousand-dollar roof and tank its value, where hail on shingles is just shingles. If you're in a zone where hail is common, insurance companies often won't forgive the dent. Know your climate first, not just your budget.
The Detail
The single biggest factor in how long a roof actually lasts isn't the material—it's ventilation. A roof that breathes outlasts one that doesn't by ten to fifteen years, even if both use the same shingles. Proper ridge venting, soffit vents, and an air gap under the deck let moisture escape before it rots the decking underneath. This costs almost nothing to add on new construction and about fifteen hundred dollars to retrofit on an existing roof, but it's the difference between a roof that lasts twenty-five years and one that lasts twelve because the wood underneath failed. When you're selecting materials, ask about the ventilation requirements first—a material that demands active ventilation isn't truly low-maintenance, but one where ventilation is optional is worth the upfront cost. If you're doing a DIY install, talk to your inspector about ventilation before you buy a single shingle. It's the cheapest insurance you can buy.